Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Les Grandes Marques de Champagne



La Champagne, feminine, is the region. Le Champagne is the wine, masculine. In the strict laws of appellation, that govern the making and the naming of French wines, the word “Champagne” has a very precise and closely guarded meaning. Up until legislation which was brought into protect the use of the names such as Champagne; many wine regions around the world making sparkling wine would almost always, put Champagne on their  labelling as they knew it would help increase sales!

Located at the northern edges of the wine growing world, the history of the Champagne wine region has had a significant role in the development of its unique terroir. The area covers 33,500 hectares. (76,000 acres) of vineyards around 319 villages that are home to 5,000 growers who make their own wine and 14,000 growers who only sell grapes. The region is set to expand to include 359 villages in the near future due to growing market demands, namely from Asia.  The different districts produce grapes of varying characteristics which are blended by the champagne houses to create their distinct house styles.

The principal grapes grown in the region include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Pinot Noir is the most widely planted grape in the Aube region and grows very well in the Montagne de Reims. Pinot Meunier is the dominant grape in the Vallée de la Marne region. The Côte des Blancs is dedicated almost exclusively to Chardonnay. The Pinots of the Montagne de Reims which are planted on north facing slopes are known for their high levels of acid and the” delicacy” which they add to the blend. The grapes on the southern facing slopes add more “ power and character”.
Grapes across the district contribute to the bouquet and headiness. The abundance of southern facing slopes in the Vallée de la Marne produces the “ripest wines” with “full aroma”. The Côte des Blancs grapes are known for their finesse and the freshness which they add to blends.
as well as the newly extended nearby Côte de Sézanne offering similar though slightly less distinguished trait.

Historically, the area's proximity to Paris promoted the region's economic success in its wine. The region developed a reputation for quality wine production in the early Middle Ages and was able to continue that reputation as the region's producers began making sparkling wine with the advent of the great Champagne houses in the 17th &; 18th centuries.  The majority of the Champagne Houses have their headquarters in Rhiems, Epernay and Ay.


Moet et Chandon
Moët et Chandon was established in 1743 by Claude Moet, and today owns more than 1,000 hectares  of vineyards, and annually produces approximately 26,000,000 bottles of champagne! It is part of the LVMH group owned by Bernard Arnault.

Laurent Perrier
Laurent Perrier was founded in 1812 by a gentleman named Alphonse Pierlot and he willed his company to his cellarmaster, Eugene Laurent. It was then sold to Marie - louise Lanson de Nanoncourt in 1939. It is still in the same family today. Luarent Perrier,  continues to produce highly acclaimed and much sought after Champagnes.

Pol Roger
Champagne Pol Roger was founded in 1849. The brand is still owned and run by its descendants today. Annual production is 110,000 cases of excellent sparkling wine. One of Pol Roger's most famous tipplers, was Winston Churchill, after whom they named their Cuvee Prestige!

Krug
Krug was established in 1843 by Johann Joesph Krug. Johann learned his trade at Jacquesson for 9 years before setting up Krug. The house is now part of LMVH, but has a certain amount of autonomy. The house owns 20 hectares of vineyards and buys the rest from contract growers. All the wines at Krug undergo primary fermentation in 205 litre oak barrels, which help to provide its famous rich oaky flavour. The Chardonnay grape is the mainstay of their Grande Cuvee.

Bollinger
Champagne Bollinger is independently owned by the Bollinger family to this day and was founded in  1829 .  One of her most notable family  member’s was a Scotswoman, Elizabeth Law de lauriston Bourbers ,who married Jacques Bollinger in 1923. She became passionately involved with the House’s legacy. “Madam Jacques “ as she was know in the house, threw her heart and soul into the house when she lost her husband  aged 42 in the war. The familiar image of her cycling through the vineyards is imprinted in local memories. The Bollinger champagne House has created prestigious champagnes with character, distinguished by their elegance and complexity, since 1829.

Veuve Cliquot
Founded in 1722 by Philipe Clicquot-Muiron.  Clicquot played a significant role in establishing Champagne as a favoured tipple by the haut bourgeoise and nobility throughout Europe.  Veuve Clicquot also had a notable female family member who left a legacy.  Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin married into the family in 1798, but was sadly widowed a few years later in 1805. During the Napoleonic wars she gathered a huge following for her Champagne in royal courts throughout Europe , most importantly that of Imperial Russia.  She also invented the riddling rack with the help of her cellarmaster. Since 1987 is has been part of the LVMH group.

The region of Champagne is also home to many talented small Champagne producers who have worked hard to build a loyal following. These Champagnes often known as “grower Champagnes”, have a lot of individual style and flavour as they showcase the terroir of individual vineyards where the grapes are grown. The average landholding is usually 3 hectares (6.6 acres of land). However, if the landowner is lucky enough to hold its vineyards in a Grand Cru village, the yield per hectare per price of bottle is so high that it can suppor t 3 generations on just 6 acres! When land does come up for sale a typical selling price is 1 million Euro per acre!


Champagne Marguet (Mitchell and Son House Champagne)
Champagne Marguet was founded in 1875 by Emile Marguet. Benoit Marguet  is the 5th generation Marguet to farm their vineyards today near to the Grand Cru village of  Ambonnay ,on the Montagne de Rhiems.  Benoit is extremely interested in practising Natural or Organic viticultural methods. Percheron Cart horses are employed in the vineyards over tractors and many methods are carried out closely watching the phases of the moon. Huge respect for land husbandry is practised. This is commonly know as Biodynamic farming. The result is fantatic champagnes full of vigour and finesse.
“Each cuvee is a creation, each one with its own style. There is no real hierarchy between them, simply varied qualities, to be appreciated according to the moment and the seasons’.”


Champagne Food Pairings
Chauorce Cheese (Sheridans cheesemongers/Fallon and Byrne)
Langres Cheese (Sheridans Cheesemongers/Fallon and Byrne).
Sushi
Chicken liver pate
Mushroom Risotto
Scrambled eggs with smoked salmon
Shellfish



Chicken Breasts cooked in a Champagne Sauce
4 Chicken Breasts
Pepper
4 Tablespoons of Butter
1 cup of diced Fennel
1 cup of white part of leeks
2,5 cups of diced chestnut mushrooms
1 cup of chicken stock
1 cup of Champagne or sparkling wine
1 cup of double cream

1.     Cut each chicken breast in half. Place between parchment paper and flatten lightly with a pounder.
2.     Heat the butter in a pan, and add the fennel, leeks and mushrooms for over 1 minute.
3.     Add the chicken stock, cover and cook gently for 5 minutes.
4.     Quickly dredge the chicken pieces in flour and  add to the pan
5.     Saute for 30 seconds on both sides
6.     Add Champagne and let boil for a few seconds
7.     Stir in cream, re duce and cook for  5minutes

Serve with wild rice and steamed kale and spinach.


Monday, January 20, 2014

A Very Tasty Leek Quiche

Leeks are a wonderfully diverse vegetable and will stand well on their own, most notably in the form of
a quiche.
France with out a doubt produces the best quiches.
For this recipe use Italian 00 flour for the base - it really makes a good tart!
Quiche is great for a weekday meal and then leftovers can be taken as part of a packed lunch to
the office, even better they taste great on day two!


Tart base
200g 00 Itlian Flour
50g butter (from fridge)
3-4 tablespoons of water (add as required)
Egg wash (1 egg )

Leek Filling
4 leeks chopped finely
1 onion
3 beaten eggs
150 mil milk
30g grated Mature cheddar


Oven to 180C
Grease tart tray well with butter.
Add flour to bowl with butter cut into small squares.
Knead through fingertips until breadcrumb like consistency.
Add water and to form a ball, keep relatively wet.
Cover with clingfilm and leave in the fridge for 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes roll out and place in tin. Prod well with a fork.
Brush on egg wash.
leave for 10 minutes
Place  in over and bake until a light brown.
Turn off oven and let cool inside (this helps crisp the pastry really nicely).

Making the filling
Saute the onion for 10 minutes on a medium heat,
Add the four leeks and saute on warm heat for 3-4 minutes.
Cover the pan, turn the heat to low/medium and let the leeks sweat for 10mins.
Add the leek mixture to the tart base.
Then add the 3  beaten eggs with milk.
Finish with the grated cheese.
Place in 180 oven until light brown - around 20 minutes.

This is a very compact quiche, ie lots of leeks which makes it really tasty!
Serve with baked potatoes and a winter salad.





Friday, January 17, 2014

A Northern Italian Cake

Weekends are a great time to bake a cake. There is no rush and you can enjoy the smells wafting through your home.
The Italians treat themselves once a week to a delicious; but always easy to bake cake.
 Like the french everything in moderation!

Piedmontese hazelnut and chocolate cake

200g Italian 00 flour
200 g caster sugar
100g softened butter
200g hazelnuts (toasted and shelled)
2 tablespoons hazelnut oil
1/2 orange zest, finely grated
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
125ml milk at room temperature
100g chopped dark chocolate

Heat oven to 180c
Chop hazelnuts in a food processor.
Butter 23cm spring-form cake tin.
Cream sugar and butter together
Add the eggs a little at a time and beat well
Then add the orange zest and nut oil
Gradually add the flour, salt, baking powder and milk with the mixer on a slow speed.
Fold in the hazelnuts and chocolate using a large spoon.
Scrape the batter into the cake tin and bake for 45-50mins.

You will be very happy when this is ready.
The cake will keep for a good 5 days in a sealed cake tin.
Serve with a generous dollop of cream and a desert wine. 

For those (non existent!) quiet moments in the day with a cup of coffee or tea!

Sunday, January 12, 2014

A truly Italian "Ragu Bolognese"

Ragu Bolgonese is considered the Holy Gail of Italian cooking.
Made with a lot of love and then simmered for several hours, this meal  will keep many mouths
extremely happy!

This recipe came from our Italian babysitter who was from Modena in Emilia Romagna.
Her grandmother and mother always cook the tomato part to the sauce separately (sieving it as well !) and then finished it with the mince for the long simmer in some milk.
The Italians use meat sparingly and dress their pasta with "ragu". As the sauce has been simmered for
several hours it is much richer and so less is needed.
Bellissima!

Soffrito
1 large onion
2 large cloves of garlic
2 bay leaves
1 tin of  Italian  tomatoes (if possible from Campania - they are the natually sweetest - Lidl Deluxe)
2 cups of chicken stock

Chop onion and saute on medium heat for 10 minutes.
Add chopped garlic and saute for a further 2 -3 minutes.
Add tinned tomatoes and turn up heat to high, stirring  well with garlic and onions.
After several minutes add the chicken stock and bay leaves bring to boil and then simmer
the "soffrito" for  30 minutes.

Mince

500g  Round steak mince or 250/pork mince and 250/lamb's mince
4 teaspoons dried oregano.
200 mil of white wine
300 ml milk

Saute mince in a pan on a high heat until well cooked, add white wine, reduce and then added the oregano.
leave to the side.

When the "soffrito" has simmered for 30 minutes, take off the heat
remove the bay leaves and then blend into a thick sauce.

Add the mince to the blended  "soffrito"and stir well together and add the milk
Bring to the boil and then simmer  slowly for 2 hours, stirring every 20 mins or so.

Serve with any shape of pasta and grated Grana Padona cheese or make a very dense
Lasagne with lots of layers.

Wine Pairing
Aldi has a great "Gavi di Gavi" from Piedmont made from the Cortese grape.