Undiscovered Sicily

Beautiful, majestic, glorious Sicily; an Island steeped in history and its resulting cultural influences.  With so many different inhabitants; the Siculians (after which it was named), Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Germa­ns and Spanish, it is hardly surprising that it offers such  a diverse, rich culture and delicious “food wealth”. A wonderful and spectacular “ Wine Renaissance”  has been underway for the the last 15 years.  The many indigenous grape varietals that are grown in Sicily are quite rightly now being put on a pedestal and recognised by the International wine trade as some of the best table wines being produced in Italy.

The great majority of Sicilian wine is white.  Indigenous white varietals such as Catarrato, Grillo, Inzolia and Greciano produce very interesting wines, which are well suited to the hot climate and seafood cuisine.  Climatically, Sicily can be very hot and the western province of Trapani is regularly warmed to boiling point by winds from Africa. Winters are mild and wet.   However modern viticultural methods such as aggressive pruning and temperature control during fermentation help produce wines with balanced alcohol.

White Grape varietals

Carricante 

Found on the slopes of Etna, and indigenous to the region; Carricante, flourishes on the Lava soils, producing some very interesting wines.   Wines often, have notes of apple, orange blossom and aniseed .

Minella    

A rarely-seen varietal, indigenous to the volcanic slopes of Etna.  Wines have Intense flavours with notes of anise.

Ansonica/Inzolia   Its homeland is western Sicily, producing excellent wines with strong “nutty and salty” flavours, which pair extremely well with the many seafood dishes.

Grillo   Particularly suited to growing in Sicily as it tolerates very high temperatures.  Wines are aromatic with notes of pear and apple on the palate. A popular table wine.

Cataratto

Cataratto is the most widely planted grape in Sicily, good examples produce full bodied wines with exotic flavours of lemon, Apricot, honeysuckle and orange blossom.

 Red Grape Varietals

Nero D’avola,

Meaning  “black of Avola” in Italian, it is the most important red wine varietal in Sicily. Ragusa in western Sicily is where some of the best wines from Nero D’avola are produced. Other excellent examples of Nero D’avola are can be found in the northern remote hills of Madonie, in the province of Agrigento.  Vineyards are between 500 and 750m above sea level, helping to create some of the most elegant and perfumed expressions of Nero d’Avola.  

Nerello Mascalese

Nerello Mascalese  is the most noble indigenous Etnean variety. It loves altitude and grows from 350m to 1,050 metres above sea level.  The wines are very much influenced by their terroir, and so depending on their location, north or south facing, and altitude level, nuances and characterisitcs  can be quite different from each another. Many wines are remarkably reminiscent of Pinot Noir produced in Burgundy and Nebbiolo in Piedmont.

Nerello Cappucio

Rarely made on its own as a varietal wine, it is often used in blends with its cousin Nerello Mascalese. It adds elegance and the ability to age.

Mount Etna

Mount Etna is probably the most interesting wine growing area, considering it is an active volcano! The volcanic soils provide an ideal environment for vine growing and add unique flavours and tones, and a strong minerality to the wines. Many vine growers still use the old fashioned bush planting method of “Alberello”.  In the vineyards fruit trees, cactus and herbs are grown alongside vines and these flavours are very much present in the wines.  Indigenous red varietals to Etna include Nerello Mascalese, which is the most important, and Nerello Cappuccio which is used in blends.   A wide diurnal range means that the wines have excellent acidity. North facing vineyards are cooler than south-facing ones, some sites are windy and those on the eastern side experience maritime breezes. Etna is very site specific. The wine styles are not to dissimilar to pinot noir grown in Burgundy.

Travel in Sicily.

Palermo ,  the fascinating and beautiful capital of Sicily, a city which feels as though “time has stood still”.    Often described as, “Ancient Elegance” with piles of charisma and beauty, in all its faded glory.  The Viccurian Market which runs 6 days selling the freshest of produce has managed to the stand the test of 700 years of trading time and gives a true sense of city living and gives place for how people pass there day to day lives. The local dialect is a Sicilian Italian that is spoken only  in Palermo, and is referred to, as the “language of love”. An absolute must visit.

Mondello

Mondello, a suburb of Palermo full of charm; A  truly “Palermeritani”  seaside destination . Mondello  is a long curving  bay with sparkling blue clear water and a well maintained promenade (critical for “post dinner posing”, where newborn babies are shown off and young children run up  down, eagerly awaiting for “Gelati”). Graceful and large “liberty style “villas watch over.  One side of the bay has a selection of “trattorie”, “pizzerie” and seafood restaurants, filled with a lot of noise and laughter, serving delicious fresh food which will not disappoint. A typical menu will offer fresh lobster ravioli washed down with a bottle Inzolia.  A visit to this undiscovered locality  is an education in Sicilian custom and rituals as  families, elderly ladies, teenage groups and young couples all come together  to enjoy the sea and sun.

Castellamare del Golfo lies on the North coast of Sicily in the provence of Trapani.  The “wild west” of  Sicily.  The town’s aspect is interesting. Its starts at an elevated level, literally clinging to a steep dramatic cliff face, and gradually sweeps down to a small port. The cobbled main streets run parallel to one another to the Port. The seaview is always in sight. A market town filled with bakeries, butchers, delicatessan’s, vegetable shops and wine Enotecas .  Its feel is well and truly “local”. The mode of transport is by moped . Many ladies of the older generations are dressed in black and look on with tales of the past etched in their expressions. Gentlemen of the same generation, languidly pass their days drinking strong coffee, outside the bars, playing cards and chess. At night, walking the streets where the balconies are draped with washing, with the occasional shrill acceleration of a moped;  giving the sense of  untouched southern Mediterranean life.

Scopello

Hidden away a few miles along the coast from Castello di Mare del Golfo. A protected marine area, offers the most fantastic swimming with pristine turquoise waters.  It is home to an old Tuna “Tonnara”, where the family once lived. It has over time become a destination for the Milanese and Romanese smart sets “in the know”. The few restaurants offer “Logia” style dining amid, the excotic smells of Jasmine and Orange Blossom.

Linguaglossa

An elevated town on the way up to, Mount Etna, with incredible views of the island below. A much welcomed surprise, filled with chic boutiques and mouthwatering “pasticeria” . Passing through at 4pm just after Siesta, is most entertaining, as locals arrive for a quick “Macchiato” and sugary treats to set them on their way until evening time.

Ortygia -  Syracuse

Once home to Archimedes, Syracuse was the centre of Greek, Byzantine and Judaic civilization.  The well preserved remains of both the Greeks and Romans are fascinating. Ortygia is an island,  predominately a residential quarter of the city, with a distinct Baroque style.  Ortygia needs a day of “getting lost” and is best enjoyed if one wanders around the island simply following the scents,and your senses will be delighted.   It is filled with awe inspiring architechture and chic shops selling everything from furniture to locally made soaps. There a lot of extremely glamorous “super grans” with immaculate shiny hair and handbags to die for. The stunning Piazza Duomo (picture) , is a superb place to end the day ,in time for dinner with a glass of Prosecco.  Soak up the southern Sicilian evening atmosphere under the local stars.

Spaghetti alle Vongole -

You will find this very delicious  meal all over coastal Sicily – many beaches even have mini vans where they will even cook it “to order” in a couple of minutes. Sicilian style “take away food”!

Ingredients

1kg Clams

500g Spaghetti

1 cup of dry white wine

4 crushed garlic cloves

3 tablespoons of Extra virgin olive oil

1 cup of chopped Tablespoon of parsely         

Rinse the clams well and discard any that are empty or open.

Cook the pasta

Heat the olive oil and add the 4 crushed cloves of garlic

Add the clams and parsley, cover and shake over a high heat for 2 minutes.

Add the white wine, cover and cook for 2-3 minutes until the clams have opened.

Combine the pasta and clams together.