Food, wine and travel in the Southern Rhone valley and Langeudoc Roussillon

Southern Rhone and Languedoc  Roussillon

The Southern Rhone throughout its history has always been the gateway to the South of France.  The Romans planted many vineyards and were big producers of wine.  However with the fall of the Roman Empire, the interest in growing vines disappeared, and wine was not produced until the 13^th Century when the Pope moved to Avignon.

The landscape of the Southern Rhone is rugged, which acts a preventative from the Mistral wind .Vineyards give way to pine and almond trees, and then to olive groves in the far south. Red wine is the core of wine production, with Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Mourvedre being dominant varietals. Key wine producing appellations are Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Rasteau and cotes du Ventoux.

"Galets roulés”, otherwise known as pudding stones are a dominant feature in many vineyards. These are large round stones, natural to their landscape which lie at the base of the vines, absorbing the heat of the sun during the day, and releasing the warmth at night thus keeping the vines warm. Due to the cloudless skies, there is often a significant drop in temperature.

Lanugedoc Roussillon is essentially two regions with separate histories. Roussillon formed the Kingdom of Majorca and Languedoc to the east was a province of France. These differing cultural influences have helped to evolve the food and wine which is present today.  It is also the single biggest wine-producing region in the world! Wine producing appellations are Coteaux du Languedoc, Corbieres, Faugeres, Minervois, Saint Chinian and Limoux.

Grenache

Grenache is a late ripener, and requires hot and dry climatic conditions, typically found in the Southern Rhone. It produces wines which are soft with flavours of berries and spice. It performs better when blended with other Rhone varietals.

Syrah

Wines made from Syrah are powerful and full bodied, often with notes of red berries, chocolate and black pepper. The differences in the soil quality as well as the changes in the slope of the terrain tend to produce different styles of wine.

Mourvedre

Mourvedre produces wines which are dense,with structure, tannins and good ageing potential. Andrew Jefford, world renowned wine writer wrote recently “Mourvèdre will, I believe, one day be seen as the grape variety of choice for the finest, warmest red wine sites in the south of France”.

Carignan

Carignan is a late ripener and a challenging grape to grow. It is susceptible to different forms of mildew and needs constant warmth during the growing season. Old-vine carginan vines fully ripened on infertile soils in a warm summer, produce by far the best Carignan wines.

Exploring  Languedoc Roussillon

The trick to exploring this region is to come off the motorway and spend your days driving along country roads admiring the picturesque medieval villages and landscape of vineyards, olive groves, lavender, sunflower fields, and  cypress trees . Take a picnic or have lunch in a village Auberge. If you are feeling energetic cycling is a wonderful way to tour the region and for the more adventurous, on horseback!

Limoux

Limoux is a very pretty and ancient market town 20 miles south of Carcassone at the foot of the Pyrenees and only one hour from the Mediterranean.  A town known for celebrating carnivals throughout the year, it has a reputation as a lively one, for its small size. Limoux even hosts the world’s longest running carnival from January 30^th until April 11^th each year! The Carnival takes place every Saturday and Sunday and is considered to be a “real folklore celebration”. The surrounding countryside is very pretty with rolling hills laden with vineyards, beautiful houses and castles.

Montpellier

Montpellier is the capital of Languedoc Roussillon. Described as the most “seductive” city in France; loaded with culture, elegance and stunning medieval architecture. September and October is a enjoyable time to visit, when the sun is cooler and Montpellier orchestral season has started.  There is something for all ages from babies to Grandparents. It is quite typical to  to see families of all ages out well towards midnight enjoying the Southern ambience. A visit to nearby Chateau Flaugergues is a must, where one can see the family’s stunning art collection, including Flemish tapestries and 10 acres of magnificently designed and well kept gardens.

Carcassonne

Carcassonne is France’s iconic medieval walled city and the largest walled city in Europe still intact. A day getting lost along , slowly walking along cobbled streets, stopping for coffee and lunch. Al Fresco dining is “de rigeur” Close to the Carcassone lies the breath takingly beautiful Gellone Valley, where you will find the ancient village of Saint- Guilhem-le-Désert, which is classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France. The abbey church which was built between the 9^th and 11^th century is a masterpiece of Languedocian Romanesque art.

Recipe

Aubergine Mousse

2 cloves of garlic

4 Aubergines

75 ml Olive Oil

3 egg yolks

3 eggs

250ml Milk

250ml Double cream

6 Tomatoes

1 lemon

10 leaves of Basil

Peel the garlic and cut into thin slivers. Make several small incisions in the aubergines and fill with the garlic. Wipe the aubergines with a little olive oil and bake on a tray scattered with sea salt in a hot oven (200C) for 30 minutes or until completely soft. Allow to cool.

• Halve the cooled aubergines, scoop out the flesh and discard the skins. Place the pulp in a blender, season with salt and pepper, and blend to a smooth purée. Add the egg yolks, eggs, milk and cream and blend again.

• Brush the interiors of ramekins with olive oil and fill with the mixture. Place in a deep tray and pour boiling water around. Cover with a buttered paper and bake in a medium oven (150C) for 30 minutes or until set.

• Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water for 20 seconds, then refresh in cold. Remove the skins, cut in half and scoop out the pulp. Chop the remaining flesh into neat little dice. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar, and the juice of half the lemon. Chop the  basil leaves into a  into very fine ribbons. Warm the tomatoes on a gentle heat then add the basil and the oil. Do not allow to get too hot.

Serve with warm crusty bread and a glass of Rose de l’Engarran or J Gaillard Roussanne.