Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Vineyards in Burgundy

One of the best times to visit a wine region, is during the midst of  Spring or in the Autumn.
Just out of winter, new life is begining to form in the vineyards or  at the end of the year, as the vineyard cycle is coming to a close, before vines shut down in the winter for a well earned break; and the leaves in the vineyards and surrounding woodland are turning magnificent shades of red and orange; vignerons are tidying up the vineyards, and the aromas of bonfires cross the landscape.
 There is no better place than Burgundy in eastern France to experienc this wonderful change of seasons.

Flying into to Lyon,  and driving through the region over five days, ending in Chablis and flying out of Paris
gives enough time to do a thorough investigation.  Beaujolais is extremely pretty, rolling countryside with beautiful Domaine houses faced with the local sandstone. Jean Paul Brun of  Domaine de Terres Dorees, who is located  near the village of Charnay, is one of Burgundy's supremely talented stars.  The charming and rather shy Jean Paul who is the owner and winemaker,  is incredibly passionate about his creations. This passion is really instilled whilst enjoying a tasting of his mouthwatering selection as he gives   every possible detail about the growing season; from  the harvest, to the pressing  and finally onto the fermentation; which over this period of time produces the true character and style of his wines.
The wines of Terres Dorees are excellent to say the least.  A  more unusual wine which Jean Paul makes  and which is harder to come by throughout the region in general is his Beaujolais Blanc.  An incredibly classy wine with "stone fruits and balanced minerality" made from chardonnay, fermented in stainless steel and no oak ageing. These are wines to try and must be hunted down if possible!

Travelling on up to Macon, to Nicolas Maillet.  Nicholas who is a jolly, man of great "bon viveur", has a small holding of land near the village of Verzy and farms using organic methods.  He is passionate about the "health" of his vineyards and vines, and works incredibly hard to keep a "natural biodiversity". His Macon Village white and Verzy are excellent . The Verzy is a constant  favourite "with honeyed notes and a balanced minerality", showing the true terroir. Both wines do well with some time spent in bottle. To get a taste of local life, head on down to the village pub for a slap up 3 course lunch and chat to other locals who meet here at 1pm!

  Along the route de Macon and up to La Soufrandiere at Pouilly Vinzelles, there are two young mavericks busy at work; Jean Guillame and Jean Phillipe, well known as the "Bret Brothers" . They are an extremely talented and passionate pair. The name "Bret" was given by some local wine growers. The wines are fantastic to say the least. Jean Guillame and Jean Phillipe have gathered an almost cult following since they took over from their grandparents, and their wines are now  enjoyed across the world. The estate was converted to organic viticulture in 2003. Many of the vines are up to 50 years of age, which give an extra added dimesion and complexity to the wines. Cuvees to look out for are: Bret Brothers "La Martine", Bret Brothers "La Soufranderie" and Bret Brothers, " Clos de Grand Peres". The wines are full bodied in style with luscious richness; when you have tasted these wines, you will most likely  become a firm follower of the brothers!

Other producers to keep a close on are Stephan Aladame, a  Montagny Premier Cru producer from the  Cote Chalonnaise, which is arguably the most beautiful and unpoilt part of Burgundy. Rolling hills with  a wonderful tapestry of mixed farming: grazing sheep, vineyards and orchards.

As well Seguinot Bordet in Chablis which is now in the 10th geneartion, producing incredibly elegant wines with grace and character. Be sure  to base yourself in Beaune for a day or two and enjoy this charming town which is filled with excllent restaurants, patisseries, charcuteries, fromageries.

Burgundy is  a food and wine lovers dream - you will want to return again and again!


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